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Thursday, August 14 - Paris
Today we try to make the Louvre at 9 am, and only miss by 15 minutes. There are already crowds of people, but no lines. We go right in and head straight for the Mona Lisa. We were told that as the day wears on the line becomes lengthy. By the time we wend our way back to "her" there's a crowd but no line. Her eyes definitely seem to follow you as you move from one side to the other. The painting seems darker than in photos because of tinted protective glass. Then begins our 6 hour labyrinthine exploration of the vast Louvre. It is more massive than you can possibly imagine. We got 'lost' dozens of times. There are 3 wings and 4 floors, and it is very difficult to go from one area to another - you end up 'going back the way you came' over and over. But the Louvre is the first museum that should be in its own museum, much like Versailles as a palace. Every detail of the ceilings and paneling and flooring are masterpieces themselves. Highlights included the Rubens - 24 massive paintings done for King Henry IV and his Queen in only a 4 year period, each one depicting a different event in their lives. The Venus de Milo is more impressive than the photos. The Code of Hammurabi, Sumerian pre-cuneiform tablets nearly 5000 years old, Mesopotamian pottery from the time of Abraham and Sarah, all are awe-inspiring. The Persian collection from the reign of Darius impressed, as did the Egyptian materials. All in all, the Louvre is a combination of the Metropolitan Museum and the Smithsonian rolled into one. Their crown jewels, however, couldn't hold a candle to the Smithsonian, or Great Britain's, either, we suspect. We walk back to our hotel and change over US travelers checks at the duty free store - the rate improved since we left! Harvey and Nancy then catch a cab to Notre Dame, tour it and take many more photos, and Nancy lights a candle for Gloria. We then go to this little jewelry store on Rue François Premier called Dubail where Harvey makes a small purchase. Then to the Champs Elysées where we go shopping at Sephora - the most amazing perfume store! We manage to buy some perfume and cologne. Alas, back to the hotel to change for our final dinner in Paris at La Tour d'Argent. La Tour d'Argent is the oldest restaurant in Paris, founded in 1582. Their specialty is pressed duck. The view is spectacular overlooking the Seine and Notre Dame Cathedral from the 6th floor. The room's interior reminds of 18th century France. The service is attentive and we drink from silver cups. The food is expensive and very good, but frankly, Frommer's is correct: nothing seriously special. It is the ambiance and the view that makes the dinner there worthwhile. While we wore jackets and ties, some wore merely button-down shirts, and one Frenchman and his family brought their DOG! The French take their dogs everywhere, and they are welcome in stores, and apparently even fine restaurants, although the head waiter was clearly making a face about the dog. Our cabs deposited us back at our hotel, but we walked across to the bistro of the now-defunct Comédie Francaise where we had ice cream and tea; the coffee machine was turned off for the night. The temperature had finally cooled to a nearly enjoyable degree and was very breezy. It was a delightful way to end our stay in Paris. |
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